2.) Carefully peel off the 4 rubber feet and remove the battery compartmetn door (any any batteries if installed)
3.) Remove the 6 screws (2 in battery compartment 4 under the rubber feet)
4.) Carefully flip over the printer and lift off the top
5.) Lift off the 3 gray plastic buttons (note orintation will be reinstalled later)
6.) Unplug the 2 cables running to the printer mech. Carefully pull strait up and slightly rock end to end on the base of the ribbon cable to remove it.
7.) remove the 2 screws in the upper corrners of the printer mech assembly. Then lift up and out and place someplace safe.
8.) Unplug connector to battery compartment.
9.) lift out printer circuit board.
10.) Remove the following componets (minimum list) AC wires, CR1, CR6, U1, U3.
AC wires to remove the old AC in power jack to make room for the new data cable.
CR1 to take the diode voltage drop out since the input voltage will be 5V instead of the 6V a normal battery pack would supply.
CR6 to allow power back into the "AC supplied" side so the printer will not go to sleep after a short period of inactivity like it would on battery power.
U1 so the above rework is not back driving that regulator.
U3 to access the decoded IR output signal.
11.) Install a jumper wire across CR1's location
12.) Install a jumper wire across CR6's location
13.) Install a wire into the pin hole of U3 closest to C34 as shown. (This is the data input wire from the adapter). Note I have removed all unused components. This is not nesicary just the parts listed above need to be removed.
14.) Remove all the battery contacts from the battery compartmetn. If you look carefully there are tabs you bend up then the contacts will just press out.
15.) trim the plastic ridge in the battery compartment as shown to fit the adapter PCB. (I used a fiberglass dremal cutoff wheel)
16.) Cut 2 holes / slots as shown in the back of the battery compartment for wires.
17.) String the battery power cable and your new data cable (I used a old 9 pin serial extension cable) as shown. The data cable is routed out the old AC power jack hole.
18.) Reinstall the printers PCB and route the data in wire to the battery compartment. Also plug the battery power cable back into the PCB.
19.) Reinstall the 3 gray button caps
20.) Reinstall the print head. First install the 2 screws in the upper corners. Next plug in the power cable next to the battery power cable. Lastly install the print head flex cable. Carefully line it up on the socket then firmly press the cable edge down and in till it stops.
21.) Carefully flip the printer over and reinstall the 6 screws. (2 in battery compartment and 4 under the rubber feet)
22.) Reinstall the 4 rubber feet. If you were careful when you peeled them off they should stick right back on.
23.) Wire up the adapter PCB per schermatics. You will need to install the jumper between pins 1 and 2 of the configuration / programing header. The "data in" wire you added to the printers PCB goes to the collector of Q1 where you removed the IR led. The black wire from the battery pack cabke goes to ground. The red wire from the battery pack cable goes to +5V. The data cable can be wired to suit your needs see the schermatics and make sure you supply 5V and ground on the cable to the printer. (Minimum cable config would be +5V, serial in, ground. Max would be all 5 pins)
24.) Install the battery cover. It should easly pop in place. If you need to force it on make sure that the adapter PCB is laying flat in the spot you remove the rib earlier.
25.) Flip the printer over and test.
