Can bus adapter assembly instructions
V1.3 14FEB2010 PJS
www.wire2wire.org

Can bus to serial adapter. All rights reserved Peter Shabino.
(wire@wire2wire.org)
Free for personal non commercial use as long as readme is included.
Commercial/kit use please contact me at wire@wire2wire.org.

First things first check the content of your parts kit vs the bill of materials. BOM in xls format is here: can_sniffer_bom.xls

Click here to jump to the logics and copper images.

Next orient the raw card so that the side with "www.wire2wire.org" is facing down. Then spin the card so the small end with the holes for the DB9 connector is on the right. All instructions with physical directions (up, down, left, right, top, or bottom) are referenced to this orientation.
Note the following pictures have 2 identical card joined together (how they come from the raw card vendor) Just refer to either the top or bottom half for location codes. (click to view larger image)

1.) Install R1 the 49.9k Ohm resistor (1% = yellow, white, white, red, brown).
2.) Install R2, R3, R4 120 Ohm resistor (5% = brown, red, brown, gold).
3.) Install R6, R7 10k Ohm resistor (5% = brown, black, yellow, gold).
4.) Note R5 is NOT populated.
Card should now look like this: (click to view larger image)

6.) Install C1, C3, C4, C5, C14 0.1uF ceramic caps (non polarized)
Card should now look like this: (click to view larger image)

7.) Install C6, C7, C9, C10, C11, C12, C13 1.0uF ceramic or tantalum caps (If polarized tantalum caps are used make sure the + side of the cap (marked on body + it is the long leg) goes to the square pad)
Card should now look like this: (click to view larger image)

8.) Install C8, C15 10uF tantalum caps (polarized cap make sure the + side of the cap (marked on body + it is the long leg) goes to the square pad)
9.) Note C2 is NOT populated
Card should now look like this: (click to view larger image)

10.) Install D1, D2, D3 leds as shown (the Cathode (negative, "flat" side, short leg) goes to the square hole.)
Card should now look like this: (click to view larger image)

11.) Install J1
12.) install the socket for U1 (the notch in one end of the socket goes to the left towards the square pin.).
Card should now look like this: (click to view larger image)

At this point forward devices and the assembly WILL be ESD sensitive. Uses proper ESD procedures (wrist strap, grounding, etc http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrostatic_sensitive_device)

13.) Install U2 MCP2515 (Pin 1 goes to the square pad. Note notch / molded dimple indicates pin 1 on the module)
14.) Install U3 MCP2551 (Pin 1 goes to the square pad. Note notch / molded dimple indicates pin 1 on the module)
15.) Install U4 MAX232 (Pin 1 goes to the square pad. Note notch / molded dimple indicates pin 1 on the module)
16.) IF YOU HAVE A VERSION 1.2 RAW CARD SKIP THIS STEP! Install X1 oscillator. (the square corner of the module goes to the square pad)
Card should now look like this: (click to view larger image)

17.) Bend the legs of U5 LM7805 at the knees 90 degrees twards the face of the device.
18.) Install U5 LM7805 so the face of the module rest on top of U3 MCP2551 as shown. Back of U5 (heat tap) should be pointed up and not touching X1.
19.) DO NOT install U1 as shown in the picture yet. Wait till the testing stage.
Card should now look like this: (click to view larger image)

20.) ONLY DO THIS STEP IF YOU HAVE A V1.2 RAW CARD V1.3+ SKIP THIS STEP. Install X1 oscillator ON THE BACKSIDE (solder side) of the raw card. (the square corner of the module goes to the square pad)
Card should now look like this V1.2 ONLY!!!!: (click to view larger image)

21.) Install your wiring harness to connect to the car.

Pad location	Use
Top pad (closest to the corner of the raw card)	Power +12V
1 From top	Can High
2 From top	Can Low
Bottom pad	Ground

22.) Take a break and come back after a hour (trust me it is worth it)
23.) Double check all your work. Make sure polar caps, LEDs, and all modules are installed with the correct orintation.
24.) Check the back side for solder bridges and shorts.

TESTING.
25.) With U1 REMOVED connect a 9V battery to the +12V power and ground pads (- to ground, + to +12V).
26.) Verify the green LED is lit and the rest are off. If the Green does not light check for shorts or backwards modules (especialy the oscillator)
27.) Disconnect the battery.
28.) Install U1.
29.) Connect a 9V battery to the +12V power and ground pads (- to ground, + to +12V).
30.) Verify the green LED and the yellow LED is now lit. (If the yellow is off verify U1 is programed and also that the oscillator is working)
31.) Disconnect the battery.
32.) Connect the serial port to a PC and open a terminal program (hyperterm or minicom) with the following settings 115.2kbps 8N1 no flow control.
33.) Connect a 9V battery to the +12V power and ground pads (- to ground, + to +12V).
34.) You should see "RESET" every time you connect the battery else check the caps and U4.
35.) Disconnect everything module is ready for testing in your car. If it does not receive any messages from the can bus check U3.

Extra documentation.